Climbing Mount Toubkal At 4,167 metres, Jebel Toubkal is the highest mountain in North Africa. Located to the east of Marrakech, it is the dominant peak of the Atlas Mountains. A grand taxi will take you from Marrakech to Imlil, where the walk to the Toubkal summit begins. The height of the peak is daunting, but it is a moderate hike for those that feel like pushing their limits (just a little bit), and the route is well defined. There is a refuge to stay the night before tackling the summit. A slow and steady approach will allow you to take in the spectacular scenery while overcoming the effects of altitude. Some tourists take pack donkeys, but for those of moderate fitness and with a light pack, it is not necessary. The walk is popular among local people and tourists alike, and people are friendly on the trail. Speaking Moroccan Arabic to shopkeepers when buying food Most Moroccans can speak and understand around five languages: traditional Arabic; the Moroccan dialect of Arabic; Berber; French; Spanish (mostly in the north); and either German or English. English is the least widespread of those languages. Make an effort to learn a few Moroccan words and the local people will be more likely to open up to you, and the shopkeepers may not rip you off so hard. At Maison de la Photographie in Marrakech The photographs at the Maison de la Photographie in Marrakech offer a glimpse into Morocco – and Marrakech in particular – from as early as the 1870s. The museum owns an exhaustive collection of prints taken in Marrakech in the early 1900s. A highlight is a documentary made by a group of French anthropologists about a trip through the Atlas Mountains to meet the Berbers. You will want to head straight there after watching. G E T T I N G A R O U N D The northern half of the country and its major cities are connected by rail, while the rest is connected by an extensive network of buses and taxis that drive long distances between cities and towns. G E T T I N G T H E R E There are no direct flights between Australia and Morocco, but the country is well connected to Europe and the United States by budget airlines. It is worth shopping around for flights – I flew direct from London to Essaouira for less than $80 on Easyjet (flying only two days per week). In the hills above Fez Fez is old and an intimidating city. It is the largest car-free medina remaining worldwide. Fez, in fact, has plenty of things considered the ‘oldest’, ‘largest’, ‘longest continually running’, etc. It is a web of living history. Although the city is considered the cultural heart of Morocco, it is not a tourist-friendly place. It is best to take a tour, which will venture to the leather tanneries of Chouara, the Qarawiyyin Mosque and University, and the Madrasa al-Attarine. Visit the Maranid Tombs overlooking the city in the late afternoon, to put the Fez medina into perspective. It provides a panoramic view of the sprawling city with enough detail to see the thousands of people in the huge courtyard of the Qarawiyyin mosque at afternoon prayer time. D E S P A T C H E S FOREIGN CORRESPONDENCE 53 M B G C 52